Wednesday 21 September 2011

Day 323 Mozambique 21/09/2011, Catandica – Free camp 30km north of Vanduzi. 53.47miles/85.59km, 5hr56minutes, Av 8.9mph.

We had a nice meal last night and a few beers. The hotel room also got a lot better when I found the switch for the air-conditioner. It was just a shame that I hadn't found it earlier, I should have known to look behind the curtains, obvious really!

Having slept well we went through to have breakfast, which turned out to be a cup of tea/coffee with three biscuits each. This was clearly not enough and as it turned out it wasn't included either, even though we are pretty certain we were told it was. In fact, having milk powder in the drink meant that we had had an extra. Mozambican guest-houses are starting to look dearer and dearer. By the time we had waited for omelette and chips to fuel us for the day, we were late leaving. It wasn't the best start, but at least Debs sick feeling from the day before had gone away.

Having purchased some bread from the guest-house, we stopped just out of town and bought some bananas from a stall. We now had some food for lunch, our supplies are getting a bit thin on the ground and we would be camping tonight.

It may have just been tired legs but the road seemed especially hilly today. I am sure when this route was suggested to me by the people at Kande Beach in Malawi, I was told that it was pretty much downhill or flat all the way. To describe the road going south from Tete as flat, would be like saying that the Lake District isn't remotely hilly!

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As in the previous days we encountered lots of friendly people, although I seem to be a magnet for drunken youths who are ruining it a little for me. Still the vast majority are happy to see us and not just for our money!

Despite the hills and the continued heat we got along well, momentously passing the 6000 mile mark; not bad for a couple of occasional cyclists!

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By 2pm we arrived in Pungue Sul, a small village which according to the map boasts two camp-sites. To miss one of them was unfortunate, but to miss both must be exceptionally bad luck. Strangely the locals, who were very helpful, didn't seem to know anything about them either. Trying to ask if there is a camp-site close by in Portuguese, is only useful if the people have ever heard the word camp-site! With some vaguely offered instructions from one of the guys, that the camping was down the road we set off feeling less than confident. In fact, 20km further down the road we did find a camp-site, but it's a free one in some woods. We are opposite a village but concealed by virtue of a ridge, so hopefully we will be undisturbed.

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The toughest thing could be getting to sleep in what is going to be a very hot tent. It might be a bit of a 'catch 22' situation for the rest of our time in Mozambique. We have to camp to keep the costs down, but unless we can find some shade it is going to be too hot to sleep, which is not a good thing when you are cycling. I am sure it will all work out, but it will be nice to make it to a town tomorrow so we can have our first day off in nine consecutive cycling days.

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