Our seventh day straight on the road and a good way to start it was with Debs being sick! She blames a dodgy hard-boiled egg that we bought from a street vendor, but in truth it could be anything. Until yesterday we hadn't treated the water since we arrived back in Africa, working on the basis that we have built up a resistance to any bacteria that may be present. Hopefully it is just one of those non-specific illnesses that will end as soon as it began.
We set off early this morning into a still and therefore very warm day. Having suffered a headwind for so long, we are now almost wishing for its return. At least it would give some relief from the relentless heat. Fortunately, for the first 40km or so, it was fairly flat with some good descents. This gave a weak feeling Debs an easier start to the day.
Arriving in the town, I use the term loosely, of Comacha we stopped for a drink and went to have a look for something to eat. It may have been only 10:30am but Debs was riding on an empty stomach so we needed to get some food. Having had a largely positive experience in Mozambique so far, it was sadly ruined for me when I was pestered by some drunk guys for money and cigarettes. This is the kind of situation that makes me angry, saddened and annoyed. There is no doubt that we are in another poor country, you only have to look around as you travel through. But since when has it been acceptable to sit on your backside drunk at 10am in the morning and then hold your hand out like you are some kind of charity case. I presume that if the guys could afford the alcohol then they could have afforded to eat. Showing someone to a restaurant afterwards and sitting waiting while we eat, so they can use it as some kind of leverage to gain money doesn't make it any better either. Especially as the person in question kept taking a sip from the bottle of gin/vodka that was in his pocket. Instead of donating money to these people, perhaps we should educate them that there is no such thing as a free lunch.
The nice Mozambican guy that we had met on our first day hit the nail on the head when he said “Africans are stupid; if you give them money they will buy expensive phones, clothes and cars and then still sit on the side of the road with their hands out, because they can't afford to eat”. As far as I can see this seems to be the case, however aid is used to assist the vulnerable, throwing money at the problem is not the answer. Actually Debs thought the guy who took us to the restaurant was quite friendly, if a little drunk. I simply can't consider anyone friendly, who is only doing it for the money. Perhaps that is the difference between Debs positive outlook and my one of cynicism. Rant over, at least the restaurateur was friendly and the chips were tasty!
Back on the road and I was in a right grump, fortunately it was softened by some genuine smiling people along the way. You may have to make the effort to speak and wave first in Mozambique, but it is definitely worth it.
The last 30km of the day were tough, the road got hillier and the midday heat made progress difficult. It was with some relief that we arrived in the town of Catandica and found a guest-house. Better still, the woman in charge seems to speak English, which has made things a little easier. The room is nice and the place seems to have quite a busy restaurant, serving what looks like pretty good food. We will be trying the food out later as well as the odd beer. I am already quite fond of the Mozambican beer, especially as they seem to take serving it cold very seriously.
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