In what seems like typical fashion on the day we intend to leave, the wind got up quite dramatically during the night. The constant flapping of the tent, howling wind and crashing waves wasn't particularly conducive to a good nights sleep. The more beers than are recommended for a pre-cycling night probably didn't help either. In truth we didn't have that many we just got chatting to Kim and Chris and lost track of how many we had had. Turning in for the night I managed to get a bit of sleep, but Debs had a shocker!
Having breakfasted we de-caterpillared the tent, loaded the bikes and set off up the dirt road into the wind. Due to the fact that we were moving quite slowly the wind wasn't really an issue. In fact during the first part of the track which was a bit of a climb, it had a nice cooling effect. Fortunately Debs hip has been a lot better lately, so despite being tired she managed the few steep hills without too much difficulty.
18km later and we reached the tarmac which was a bit of a relief as the corrugations on the last few kilometres were quite bad. Before we set off for Mangochi we stopped to say thank you and goodbye to George, Matthews and the other carvers who were involved in making our wooden touring bike. They are a really friendly bunch of guys and we are very pleased with what they came up with.
Back on the road and it was a case of another day and another headwind. At times during the journey it was so strong that we were barely moving. I would love to say that we travelled through beautiful scenery but I really didn't see any of it. The entire journey was spent with headphones in to distract from the burning leg muscles and my head down looking at the road just in front of my wheel. Debs meanwhile was doing her best to stay in my slipstream. We had considered stopping earlier than Mangochi, but had decided that as it was only 75km away it would be a waste of a day. At times during the journey that looked like a really stupid decision.
With lunchtime approaching we stopped in a small restaurant and discovered that they only had 'nsima' (thick starchy porridge made from corn or cassava) ready. Having avoided this for the last two countries or at least it's similar counterpart, we decided that we better give it a go. Lunch turned out to be somewhat less than a triumph! Nsima has the consistency of school semolina and almost no discernible taste. There, for us at least, is nothing to like about it. Worse still the accompanying beef, I use the term loosely, was gristly with splinters of bone running through it. Even I couldn't eat some of it and I normally manage to eat everything!
With stomachs full of disappointment, we hit the road and after another 25km of struggling against the wind we arrived in Mangochi. The 'WelliVille lodge' is fine for one night although they are hoping a bit with their description of our room as 'executive'. Also we have come across this strange anomaly a few times in Malawi where despite being a double room you only get breakfast for one. If you both want breakfast you have to pay extra. All things aside, hopefully it will be quiet enough that we get some much needed sleep.
As our next stop is 'Liwonde National Park' we headed to the market to get some supplies. The food at the camps is quite expensive so we really want to self cater. Shopping fortunately didn't take too long as we are both shattered. An early dinner and an early night is definitely this evening's plan. We hope the wind dies a bit before tomorrow as we have a fairly long day ahead of us.
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