Having written the blog earlier in the day yesterday, I should mention something that occurred afterwards. When we went to the bar for a drink we met a General in the Mozambique Army, who was to say the least a little intense. He gave us his contact details which may be useful if we are ever brave enough to contact him. He did however buy us a beer which was very nice!
Back to this morning we both came round after a terrible nights sleep. Since leaving Blantyre and heading west the temperature has been rising. Last night has to be the hottest night we have spent since leaving Sudan. The fan helped a little, but was unfortunately so noisy that even ear plugs wouldn't block it out. It was a good thing that we planned to have another relatively short day.
Breakfast was only really notable for the child's plate that Debs food arrived on. It added a novelty factor to the standard egg, chips and bread. Although this time we had a sausage as well! With any luck we will leave the egg and chips breakfast behind when we leave Malawi. Despite eating most of it, I just couldn't bring myself to finish it this morning.
Even though we were on the road just before 8am, it was already very warm. A nice downhill section for a few kilometres kept the wind blowing around us and had a nice cooling effect, it of course didn't last. Before too long we were back climbing as we headed towards the border. Climbing and the temperature, mixed with a total lack of sleep left us both struggling to keep moving. Debs though was having an especially bad time of it.
Having got within 10km of Mwanza we encountered another climb. By now the temperature was in the late thirties, our water was running low (we hadn't expected the ride to take so long) and Debs was feeling very faint. As I continued up the hill, I saw Debs dropping back. Having secured my bike on the side of the road, I walked back down the hill to give her a hand. As I was heading towards her I saw her drop her bike and all but collapse. When I got to her she was struggling to stand, the heat and lack of energy was getting to her badly. Taking her bike off her I pushed it up the hill while she walked along beside. By the time I had got the bike to where I had left mine, she dropped behind again. Quickly putting the bike down, I went back to give her a helping hand. Eventually I got her into the shade of a tree and found some food for her to eat. Despite her recovering a little the next few kilometres were a real struggle. We made several stops when she started to feel faint again and I was quite concerned whether we would make it to town. Normally having an escort of children is a fun experience, but when you are pretty much staying on the bike by will power alone, lots of kids surrounding you is the last thing you need. Fortunately they were pretty well behaved and a combination of the road levelling out and the sun heading behind some clouds meant that we made it into Mwanza.
Finding a hotel proved to be more work than we really needed. The first place, that had been recommended to us by a shop keeper, was good but had no restaurant and we have no food. Ordinarily this wouldn't have been a problem as we would just have gone out. Unfortunately it wasn't near anywhere either. The second was cheap and not so cheerful and the third, where we ended up staying, is a little expensive. The main thing is that the room is a lot cooler than our room last night, the restaurant is alright and we are not that far from the Mozambique border.
I have very mixed feelings about our time in Malawi. We have had some great experiences, met some lovely people (most of them western) and have cycled through some lovely scenery. If only the soundtrack to our time here hadn't been 'give me money' then I would happily visit again. From what we have heard from some people who live here, there has been a change in the local populations attitude in the last few months. Undoubtedly caused by their Presidents recent erratic behaviour and increasingly dictatorial actions. Far from the friendly, warm hearted country that we have read about. We have found the people often rude, begging and generally only interested in what they can get out of us. As it is I will be glad to be moving on, another country beckons.
Sorry to hear that you have been struggling, Debbie. 12002 pageviews now to make you feel better!
ReplyDeleteLove from Mum and Dad xx