Debs decided that she really couldn't leave Istanbul without having visited a Hamman (Turkish bath). With so many to choose from, Ahmed (our hotelier) came to the rescue and recommended Gedikpaşa Hamman. After a brief visit to the post office, it was hamman time for Debs! I went off for an amble instead, as massages and washing are really not my thing.
Debs day:
Choosing a sauna and massage package from the price list (thankfully in English), I was led through to the women's section (Hammans are rarely unisex) into the camekan (dressing room) and was shown to my private cubicle. My attendant didn't speak much English but we managed to communicate with gestures and a few words. She told me to take all my clothes off and to wrap myself in my peşternal (cotton wrap). I was led through into the bathing area and to a marble wash basin. After a quick rinse, it was sauna time.
When I had sufficiently cooked myself in the sauna, it was time to be cleaned. I was instructed to lay on the centre goebektas (raised stone platform). Firstly, she poured lovely hot water over me and then used a coarse mitt to scrub every square inch of my body to remove layers of dead skin (nice!). Next she used a lacy cloth to create lots of bubbles and I was soon covered from head to toe with white frothy bubbles. I was washed and massaged all over, which was very relaxing as well as somewhat painful at times! Finally, I was led to another wash basin for my hair to be shampooed and to be rinsed.
I was then free to use the sauna and have a dip in the pool to cool off. My skin was glowing and I felt very relaxed, so it was a successful outing.
While Debs relaxed, my walk led me back through the Grand Bazaar to Beyazit square. The square is home to the main entrance of Istanbul university, which is clearly a hotbed of political activity. At least I am assuming it must be, because that can be the only reason for the huge numbers of police carrying shields and dressed in riot gear. Either that or the pigeons inhabiting the Square are particularly aggressive!
The University is off limits to tourists, so I visited the nearby Beyazit mosque, which is once again beautifully decorated inside. I really think that I should call it a day on Istanbul's mosques now though.
By the time Debs had finished her Hamman it was lunch time, so we decided to diversify our eating habits in Turkey by having a kebab. Except this time for lunch!
During our drink with Justin and Emma last week they had told us about an English book swap that was on every week day evening from 5:30 until 7pm. This worked out well, as we had arranged to meet them later for a drink, so we could replenish our dwindling reading material on the way.
The lady who runs the book swap was very friendly and we were told we were welcome to take as many books as we liked. Much to her disappointment we didn't want one of the many 'Lonely Planet' guides to Turkey that she is stock piling.
Books in hand it was time to meet Justin & Emma. We started off in a world music bar, where the slightly discordant jazz wasn't particularly conducive to conversation and then moved on to a very nice restaurant. We finished the evening in a bar, selected because it had the cheapest beer!
It had been another good night out with them both. It has been good to meet such friendly people, we may see you both further down the coast at Christmas?
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