Sadly the fans never did succeed in cooling down our room last night and worse still we woke to an absolutely scorching day. The forecast cooler weather has obviously gone elsewhere.
Having eaten a less than spectacular breakfast at the restaurant, we set off into the blazing sun, helpfully assisted by a tail wind. As a cyclist you should never complain about a tailwind, but when it is very hot you get no cooling effect at all if the wind is at your back.
Sweating our way through the thankfully rolling landscape we sped towards the border. Saying goodbye to the mountains has also meant saying goodbye to the spectacular views. For the main part it was very much like riding through savannah again.
A diversion to the slightly monotonous landscape came in the shape of several private game reserves. While riding along one of the fences trying to spot some wildlife, we encountered an ostrich that seemed to think that we were chasing it. It would rush ahead, then stop to check where we were and then speed off again as we got near. Eventually it headed off into the safety of the bush.
The border town of Lavumisa was pretty much like every other border town we have been through. Not a place that you wanted to spend any time, which is why after a cool drink we headed straight through the border. Timing going into immigration just as an overland truck full of German tourists arrived wasn't the best planning. Fortunately the queue moved quite quickly and leaving Swaziland and entering South Africa is simply a matter of getting two stamps.
Back in South Africa, and if anything it felt even hotter. Climbing a long hill from the border was hard work in the heat and we were hoping that we could find somewhere to stay soon.
Having had limited internet in Swaziland (Vodacom has no network), the only place we could find was a B&B approximately 10km from the border. Passing through Pongola game reserve didn't help with any other options as the fences put a stop to any hopes of a free camp. Stopping outside the expensive looking Shayamoya lodge, Debs phoned the B&B who said that they had seen us on the road and would send someone to pick us up. We had been quite happy to ride, but Debs was told that the track was steep and bumpy. Somewhat surprisingly a guy arrived from the Shayamoya lodge gates in a game viewer and introduced himself as Gavin. Perhaps the B&B shared a driveway with the lodge?
Loading the bikes and bags on the vehicle we drove up to the lodge somewhat puzzled as to where the B&B was. It soon became apparent that we were to be staying at the lodge, the only concern was how much was it going to cost! It turns out that the lodge and B&B are all run by different members of the same family. For whatever reason we have been given a beautiful room at the lodge for the same rate as the B&B. Perhaps travelling by bicycle has come up trumps again, we have certainly lucked in with the accommodation!
Since arriving, Gavin has been great; we are clearly a bit of a novelty as most of the lodge guests are apparently old wealthy tourists. We had barely got unloaded before he asked if we drank whisky, saying that he would get a bottle and share it with us tonight. Then after we had had lunch he dropped by our room again to ask us if we wanted a short game drive, as he and Julian (one of the guides) were going down to the dam to do some fishing. At 4pm we set off, complete with a cool box full of beer, for a very enjoyable couple of hours of chatting and wildlife spotting. No fishing actually took place as the wind was far too strong, so we just sat and watched the rhino, giraffes, zebras, warthogs and impala instead.
Having eaten a very nice three course dinner, we returned to the room where we were joined by Gavin and later Julian. It was clearly a terrific night because we ran out of whiskey! The only downside, if we can say that considering our surroundings, is that we are going to have to stay another night.
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