Day 377 South Africa 14/11/2011, Pongola – Biweda Nguni lodge, Mkuze. 26.61miles/42.77km, 3hr11minutes, Av 8.3mph.

Our day started very early this morning when I spotted Nandi, the lodge's resident spotted eagle owl, sitting on our balcony. I was a bit undecided about waking Debs up as it was only 5am, but I figured she would be a bit upset if she missed seeing the owl.

After a bit more sleep we headed to the restaurant for breakfast and then after saying our thanks and farewells to Gavin, we hit the road.

Our day on the road started pretty well, despite being sunnier than we had expected it was still fairly cool. With a long day ahead of us, we certainly didn't want the same temperatures we had encountered when we returned to South Africa.

Having checked our route, we knew we had a one fairly long climb and then the road should be at worse rolling. Riding along in the wide hard shoulder we found that we were not alone; early on at least, we had to share it with dung beetles, lizards, millipedes and at one point a leopard tortoise.

It was all going so well and then the wind strengthened. As we neared the town of Mkuze, having been fighting the wind for the last 2 hours, we began to realise that we were unlikely to make it to our intended destination. During some of the stronger gusts of wind we had almost been brought to a halt.

Turning off to the town, we stopped at a tourist office to find out if there was anywhere reasonably priced to stay nearby. We couldn't describe the staff member as informed, or even attentive, but we did get some vague directions. Arriving outside Biweda Nguni lodge it looked fairly promising and with no sign of the wind abating we weren't exactly filled with options. On the plus point the room is enormous and the lodge/B&B is very nice. For some reason however South African guest-houses charge ludicrous prices. Rooms seem to run at a very similar price to what you would pay for a decent hotel in central London. We have always accepted that occasionally we may have no choice, but at this rate our funds are not going to last the distance. Thankfully it looks like from now onwards we should be able to find camp-sites, cheap backpackers and even better we have several offers of accommodation.

Needing to get some food from the town, we got a lift in with the woman who is running the B&B. Just outside the local supermarket we encountered not one, not two, but four cyclists from England! They were on their way to Swaziland and had the benefit of the terrific tail wind. Once again we were reminded what a small world it is, when it turned out that they had all been students at the UEA (University of East Anglia). We gave them as much information about the road ahead that we could, but they are on a very tight schedule so are going to have to miss most of the sights. It is quite sad how unrealistic a timetable people give themselves sometimes. Although in their case it seems that they have just miscalculated. Wishing them well on their trip, we headed into the supermarket to get some lunch.

Back at the room and we have just holed ourselves up in front of the television. With any luck the wind will have died down a bit tomorrow. We have a shorter day ahead of ourselves now, thanks to our enforced early stop. So even if the wind doesn't drop we should be fine.

Day 376 South Africa 13/11/2011, Shayamoya Lodge, Pongola. A pleasant stroll, some stormy weather and a braai.

Obviously the fact that I had consumed a large quantity of whiskey meant that the day didn't start very early! Breakfast was followed by some resting, in my case a certain amount of groaning, and then some catching up on the blogs. Debs meanwhile was recovering from tumbling down the steps outside the restaurant. Sadly this wasn't to be her last fall of the day, as she also managed to fall over when we went for a walk. She is clearly now so accustomed to cycling that her legs don't work for walking!

Finally leaving the room behind, we had a nice stroll along one of the shorter trails that leave from the lodge. With hindsight wearing flip flops wasn't my smartest moment, as I had to keep picking thorns from the base of my feet. Plus the loose surface, as demonstrated so gracefully by Debs, meant that walking shoes would have been a better choice. Footwear dilemmas aside, we spotted some impala, zebra, laughed at the hilariously inept flying ability of dung beetles (they don't so much land, as just stop flying when they are near to the ground) and had a close encounter with a monitor lizard.

Later that afternoon we joined Gavin on a trip to the shops to get some food for a braai (BBQ). The weather however nearly put a damper on our evening plans. The power went out while we were in the shops, the sky darkened, the lightning flashed and the rain started to fall. The power did return later on in the evening, although not for long, nevertheless the braai went ahead. Gavin did an excellent job and he very nearly managed to convert us into liking pap (maize meal). We had another great evening, although a much earlier and less drunken one. Eventually the lack of power and continuing rain, drove us back to our room for the night.

Day 375 Swaziland/South Africa 12/11/2011, Big Bend – Shayamoya lodge, Pongola. 42.35miles/67.81km, 3hr40minutes, Av 11.5mph.

Sadly the fans never did succeed in cooling down our room last night and worse still we woke to an absolutely scorching day. The forecast cooler weather has obviously gone elsewhere.

Having eaten a less than spectacular breakfast at the restaurant, we set off into the blazing sun, helpfully assisted by a tail wind. As a cyclist you should never complain about a tailwind, but when it is very hot you get no cooling effect at all if the wind is at your back.

Sweating our way through the thankfully rolling landscape we sped towards the border. Saying goodbye to the mountains has also meant saying goodbye to the spectacular views. For the main part it was very much like riding through savannah again.

A diversion to the slightly monotonous landscape came in the shape of several private game reserves. While riding along one of the fences trying to spot some wildlife, we encountered an ostrich that seemed to think that we were chasing it. It would rush ahead, then stop to check where we were and then speed off again as we got near. Eventually it headed off into the safety of the bush.

The border town of Lavumisa was pretty much like every other border town we have been through. Not a place that you wanted to spend any time, which is why after a cool drink we headed straight through the border. Timing going into immigration just as an overland truck full of German tourists arrived wasn't the best planning. Fortunately the queue moved quite quickly and leaving Swaziland and entering South Africa is simply a matter of getting two stamps.

Back in South Africa, and if anything it felt even hotter. Climbing a long hill from the border was hard work in the heat and we were hoping that we could find somewhere to stay soon.

Having had limited internet in Swaziland (Vodacom has no network), the only place we could find was a B&B approximately 10km from the border. Passing through Pongola game reserve didn't help with any other options as the fences put a stop to any hopes of a free camp. Stopping outside the expensive looking Shayamoya lodge, Debs phoned the B&B who said that they had seen us on the road and would send someone to pick us up. We had been quite happy to ride, but Debs was told that the track was steep and bumpy. Somewhat surprisingly a guy arrived from the Shayamoya lodge gates in a game viewer and introduced himself as Gavin. Perhaps the B&B shared a driveway with the lodge?

Loading the bikes and bags on the vehicle we drove up to the lodge somewhat puzzled as to where the B&B was. It soon became apparent that we were to be staying at the lodge, the only concern was how much was it going to cost! It turns out that the lodge and B&B are all run by different members of the same family. For whatever reason we have been given a beautiful room at the lodge for the same rate as the B&B. Perhaps travelling by bicycle has come up trumps again, we have certainly lucked in with the accommodation!

Since arriving, Gavin has been great; we are clearly a bit of a novelty as most of the lodge guests are apparently old wealthy tourists. We had barely got unloaded before he asked if we drank whisky, saying that he would get a bottle and share it with us tonight. Then after we had had lunch he dropped by our room again to ask us if we wanted a short game drive, as he and Julian (one of the guides) were going down to the dam to do some fishing. At 4pm we set off, complete with a cool box full of beer, for a very enjoyable couple of hours of chatting and wildlife spotting. No fishing actually took place as the wind was far too strong, so we just sat and watched the rhino, giraffes, zebras, warthogs and impala instead.

Having eaten a very nice three course dinner, we returned to the room where we were joined by Gavin and later Julian. It was clearly a terrific night because we ran out of whiskey! The only downside, if we can say that considering our surroundings, is that we are going to have to stay another night.