The rock hard mattress, cement filled pillow and chilly drab conditions of our room, didn't hinder our sleep at all, we must have been tired!
It occurred to me this morning, that while this is the cheapest place we have stayed, if you add the cost of showering and lack of facilities it is actually one of the dearest. In Hama for example, we had air conditioning, a bathroom, satellite TV, a fridge, towels and someone actually bothered to clean the rooms and hotel, for the huge amount of an extra S£150 (£2) per night. Still location is on its side!
Leaving the hotel, we headed first for Khaled Ibn Al-Walid Mosque, a Turkish style mosque with black and white banded stone walls. Contained within the mosque is the mausoleum of Khaled Ibn Al-Walid, who conquered Syria for Islam in AD 636.
Having read in the guide book that women had to enter the mosque through a side door, we followed the signs for the women's entrance, which had clearly been put up by a Syrian man having a laugh at the women's expense; having circumnavigated the mosque we ended up where we started from! Even better, we had to twice pass a group of the most unpleasant children we have encountered in Syria. Obviously throwing a stone when the tourist doesn't want to take your picture is acceptable to them.
The atmosphere around the mosque was by no means threatening, but certainly not what we have come to expect. Rather begrudgingly I left Debs, who had decided she didn't want to go in, outside while I had a quick look round. Being so used to people being friendly and receiving greetings everywhere we have been, this was a new experience. I took a few photos, rejoined Debs and we left, bound for the souks.
Fortunately when we got back to the hustle and bustle of the souks the mood lightened. Once again we were amongst the smiling friendly people who we have become accustomed to.
We spent the morning just wandering, eventually coming out at the 'Church of the Girdle of Our Lady', where a strip of woven wool and silk has been declared to be a belt worn by the Virgin Mary. We visited the small side room that contains the belt, but the main church was locked, which is a shame as it looked quite interesting inside.
After a cup of coffee, we headed to have a look at the Azze Hrawe, a large Mamluk-era house. Despite the fact that there was a sign advertising 'folklore museum' and the door was open, we weren't allowed in. We were told rather unhelpfully, bearing in mind we wanted to look round the house, that we could go to the Homs museum instead.
We strolled back through the narrow streets towards the hotel, stopping to buy some fruit and vegetables at the market on the way. So far it has been a strange and occasionally frustrating day.
The strangeness and frustration continued later on, when the coffee sachets that Debs bought earlier vanished. For once I wasn't involved in the loss, although she did frisk me to make sure I hadn't taken them. Toad did seem a little hyperactive later on though, so perhaps the mystery is solved!
Later this afternoon we went for a last look round the souk and bought some more coffee sachets, as well as some eggs and some new insoles for my trainers. The shoe repair people are terrific in Syria, they seem capable of repairing just about any shoe while you wait. Obviously selling me some insoles was only a minor task, even if I did have to give it some thought before I parted with my S£15 (20p)!
It will be an early night tonight, as we are going to try and make it to Maalula tomorrow, a distance of approx 120km.
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