Leaving day and we both wake with slightly upset stomachs, not the best preparation for a days cycling, albeit a short one. Getting our gear downstairs wasn't as bigger chore as it might have been, although Debs having another puncture in her rear tyre didn't help matters. The hotel member who tried to help me fix the puncture didn't make things any easier either. I know he thought he was being useful, but Rohloff wheels have to go in a specific way, plus trying to force the rear view mirror into a position so the bike would stand up is only going to end with it breaking. Thankfully the mirror survived and it was with some relief when we actually got going.
Riding out of Hama was easy and we were soon on the motorway heading south. Unfortunately Debs really wasn't feeling very well, with a total lack of energy, so progress was difficult. I eventually persuaded her to put her headphones in and listen to some music to take her mind off things. It seemed to help and we were soon getting along quite well.
By the time we stopped for a break at a mobile coffee stall, she seemed to be feeling a little better, cappuccinos obviously have healing properties.
With Homs about 20km away we were beckoned over by some men to join them in a drink. The odd herbal tea that I had tried in Aleppo was on offer, which I have to now say, probably doesn't contain anything untoward. The guys were pleasant hosts and like everyone we have met, thought we were mad to be cycling. A few photos and several refills of tea later and we were ready for the final push into the city.
Riding into Homs was pretty straightforward, as was finding the hotel. It seems that despite Homs being Syria's third biggest city, it is tiny compared to Aleppo and Damascus.
The 'New An Nasr Hotel' has to be the most basic place we have stayed. The options in the city appear pretty limited though, you either go cheap or spend a lot more and head for one of the more upmarket hotels. The best I can really say about it is that it is a bed and the bikes are safe enough in the reception area.
Homs apparently has one of Syria's most attractive souks, so after settling in, that is where we headed. The souk was certainly bustling, it was also much lighter than the souks we saw in Aleppo with high bright ceilings. Heading into a clearly older section, I went to have a look at what some people were eating at a snack stall. I was soon asked to join them in eating some kind of boiled bean (possibly broad) which you dipped in a selection of spices and then washed down with a drink made from the juice. The drink had lemon juice and some spices added and was actually quite pleasant. Very kindly one of the customers paid for ours and we went on our way to explore more.
Everybody we met seemed to want their photo taken, or have a photo taken of someone they knew. At one point a guy told me to take a photo of a stall holder and then a picture of one of the photos in his stall. Whether the photo was of the stall holder in his younger days or of a Middle Eastern icon, I have no idea. It caused a lot of shouting and hilarity amongst several of the stall holders though. The rest of our wander round followed much the same pattern. One stall holder wanted to wear my sunglasses, an old guy posed holding a lemon and a real character posed while twirling a stick. People certainly seem very friendly in Homs.
Having had a short wander we returned to the hotel, where we found out we had to pay and give notice to use the shower, I told you it was basic!
The city certainly seems interesting, so we will spend tomorrow doing some proper sightseeing and then press on to Damascus. With any luck we should get there within two to three days, stopping in the Aramaic speaking town of Maalula on the way.
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