Happy Valentines day! That's what I should have said when I woke up, but unfortunately I had forgotten!
It had been raining during the night, but luckily by the time we were ready to go out, the weather cleared up and we set off for a day of sightseeing.
First stop was the tourist information office to get a map of the city. Map in hand we braved the traffic and headed towards the souks (market/bazaar). It has to be said that we found the souk by a somewhat circuitous route, clearly we are yet to find our bearings in Aleppo.
Breakfast for me was quickly found in the shape of a falafel filled wrap for the princely sum of 20 Syrian pounds (approx 30p). I followed this up with a strange, but not altogether unpleasant, cinnamon and nutmeg topped hot milk drink for the same price.
Debs being somewhat more discerning in her eating and drinking habits, declined both. One thing about Syria I have learned so far, is that I am definitely not going to starve. We are going to have to work a bit harder to find things for Debs to eat though.
Walking through the souk, brought back just how much I love the Middle East. The clamour of people, sights, sound and smells from the many stalls is quite enthralling. Unlike the sanitised and very touristy Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, the souks here are living and breathing. People come to buy their clothes, shoes, spices, meat almost everything you can imagine. Just when you stop to try and take it all in, you are jostled by traders dragging overladen sack barrows, small vans driving through the too narrow streets and the general throng of human traffic. The whole thing is overwhelming and compelling at the same time.
Seeking a little peace away from the souk, we stopped for a tea and some breakfast for Debs at the foot of the Citadel, Aleppo's looming fortress. Suitably fortified by the tea and food we plunged once again into the heart of the souk.
Coming out into daylight, we stopped to visit the Great Mosque. Of the mosques we have seen on our travels, Aleppo's is by no means the most impressive, it will remain notable for the hilarious costume that Debs had to wear though!
From the mosque we followed the souk until we came out at the Bab Antakiya gate, one of the original entrances into the old city. As we headed slowly back towards the hotel we passed masses of shoe repair stalls. After taking a photo of one of the stall holders, Debs was invited to stand and pose by the machinery. Everybody has been genuinely friendly and welcoming, without placing any pressure on us to buy anything.
Walking up Bab Antakiya street, looking for a ATM machine that would accept our cards, we bumped into Barbara, a lovely Canadian woman who is staying at our hotel. She showed us where the ATM was and we then accompanied her to a museum (Bimaristan al-Arghuni) housed within an old mental hospital. We were shown round by a young Syrian guy who she had met yesterday. Seeing the tiny, cold and dark cells where the dangerous patients were housed, makes you glad that medicine has moved on. The museum itself is more about the beautiful building than any exhibits and demonstrates the sympathetic restoration work that is taking place in the old city.
Following some advice from Barbara, we visited the Al-Joubaili soap factory opposite the museum. We were taken on a tour of the factory where they have been producing soap using olive oil and bay laurel, the traditional way for hundreds of years. The best soap that they produce is aged for 14 years and we are the proud owners of a block of it!
Before leaving us Barbara had informed us that the Citadel and museums are closed on a Tuesday, so we decided to stay out for a little longer and head back to the Citadel.
Although standing on the sight of a much older temple, the Citadel as it is now dates from the 12th Century. Entering through the fortified keep we walked through the huge structure, which contains the remains of a palace, newly restored hammam, mosque and many other buildings. For us though, it was the view of Aleppo from the fortresses ramparts that held the most interest.
By the time we arrived back at the hotel, it was at the end of a very long day of sightseeing. For Debs going out for dinner was the last act of a tiring day. The restaurant was nice and I got to try a cherry kebab, an Aleppan favourite dish, which was small Kofte meat balls, served on pitta and covered in cherry sauce. It was different, but I think Debs' salad and dips were probably a better choice.
Back at the hotel, Debs settled down for the night while I went to socialise with the other guests and encountered another cycle tourist. Peter is a young German guy who has been on the road for a couple of months having travelled through Europe and Turkey, he is also the first person we have met who also has a Rohloff geared bike.
For reasons still unknown it was party night at the hotel, so we were treated to lots of food and some questionable music selections. Debs was sadly too tired to join us, but other than some socialising and the smoking of some shishas she was probably in the best place. By the time I rolled into bed at 12:30am I was shattered. More sightseeing tomorrow!
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