It feels like it has been a while but we finally got back on the road this morning. The wind was light and the sun was shining, a far cry from our last day's cycling, plus my cold has pretty much gone.
Today we would be riding along the King's Highway towards Karak via the Wadi Mujib valley. The guidebook and some locals that we had met had suggested that it would be best to avoid this stretch as it passes through a steep canyon. From what we could see though, the views looked spectacular so it was worth attempting. It has to be said that the route has been playing on my mind, as the last time we climbed any steep hills was when I was unwell and I simply couldn't get up the last hill. The thought of a long descent and then getting stuck at the bottom didn't seem very appealing. Since we began the trip we were aware that we were a long way from being superfit cyclists. Through willpower, belief, and sheer bloody mindedness, not to mention an increased fitness, we have managed to ride along everything that has been put in front of us. Now for some reason I have let a certain amount of doubt creep in, whereas Debs, who has been known to struggle yet never fail, has remained confident.
The first part of the day's journey was through rolling countryside, interspersed with a few steep descents and climbs, none of which were very long. The kilometres breezed past, so we were able to accept a few of the many kind invitations to have tea.
Nearing the edge of the canyon we were passed by three kitted out Nissan Patrols with Polish number plates. We tried to have a brief chat with them when we stopped at the same view point, but whether they didn't speak much English or weren't keen on talking, we don't know. They did prove the point that not everyone you meet on the road is that friendly!
Moving on to a purpose-built viewing area, swamped with German tourists, we got a terrific view of the 4km wide, 1km deep canyon. It is very beautiful and we feel very lucky that we have been blessed with a clear day to see it in all its glory. From what we could see the road down to the bottom looked like a lot of fun and the ride back up looked a lot better than I had been expecting. Clearly I should go back to just riding the routes ahead and stop thinking about them too much. I know that Debs will be pleased if I do, as my lack of confidence has been driving her crazy!
The ride down the to the bottom was great and we were soon riding across the Wadi Mujib Dam. As got to the end of the dam we passed a police check point and were invited to join them for coffee. With the climb ahead of us this was excellent timing. Waiting for the coffee highlighted the problems of an Arabian desire to be hospitable when neither of you speak the other's language, especially if your host seems a little shy. After we had exhausted the usual mimes of it's hot and climbing hills on the bicycles is tough, we endured quite a long moment of silence. When the coffee arrived and was quickly drunk, the guys looked a bit relieved that we were going. After what seemed like a small argument they decided that I couldn't take a photo of them, but wished us well. A parting comment of 'this road is very difficult and dangerous' wasn't the most helpful though.
The road climbed steadily, but no more so than we have encountered in Turkey. We stopped for lunch overlooking the valley and then carried on climbing. The decision we had to make was whether to try and press on towards Karak or find somewhere to camp part of the way up the valley. With Debs getting tired and a decent spot presenting itself we set up camp. We haven't had such a dramatic view while camping for a while and we are glad that we decided to stop in the valley.
Hopefully refreshed from a good nights sleep, we will make the rest of the climb tomorrow morning. The King's Highway is shaping up to be a very beautiful road.
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