The morning started a bit slower than normal as I had to first mend the puncture in Debs' wheel. A length of wire appeared to be the culprit and I soon had it back together and ready for the off. Heading out of the town we had a couple of kilometres of flattish road and then it began to climb. Still nursing tired limbs from the day before and fighting a headwind, I wouldn't describe the next 17km as fun. The scenery was pretty spectacular however and we were greeted by lots of happy 'Mzungu' shouting kids. I am still not sure how I feel about being continually called Mzungu. I know it is said mainly in an endearing way, but I can't help but think if I stood in a western city and shouted 'black person' at anyone of that ethnicity, that someone would quickly take offence!
As we climbed higher, the patchwork quilt of farmland gave way to forest. Finally we reached the top and began heading sharply down. Smooth tarmac and little traffic made for a fun if extremely cold descent. For some reason all the warm weather seems to have left us today and we have been largely in cloud. The descent didn't last as long as we expected and after a level section we started to climb again. This seemed hardly fair as we were expecting it to continue gently down for at least 30km.
Heading through what seemed be a main potato growing area, we arrived in a village and decided to stop for a drink. A slightly ominous sign saying 'dangerous road ahead for 9km' at least promised another downhill section.
While deciding where to have a drink we were stunned to hear the continual blast of a horn, followed by a lorry thundering through the village at possibly 100km/h. With the schools having finished for the day there were children all over the road sides; to say that the driver was irresponsible is such an understatement as to be ridiculous. Along the Tanzanian roads they often put a series of vicious speed bumps, which are horrible on a bicycle. Without these through villages you would never see a driver slow at all. It was clearly a shame that they didn't have them through this particular village.
Having had our drink we set off down the road and had an enjoyable free-wheel through some sharp bends. Bizarrely in the middle of nowhere we encountered some of the aforementioned speed bumps. They were so effective that we overtook a lorry, that was taking an age to get over them. Why they were there is anyone’s guess, except possibly to slow traffic coming down the hill. We would have thought slowing them through a village would be more useful!
Reaching the bottom of the hill, the landscape changed again. Suddenly we were surrounded by banana palms, tea plantations and a lush jungle like terrain.
Having had our drink we set off down the road and had an enjoyable free-wheel through some sharp bends. Bizarrely in the middle of nowhere we encountered some of the aforementioned speed bumps. They were so effective that we overtook a lorry, that was taking an age to get over them. Why they were there is anyone’s guess, except possibly to slow traffic coming down the hill. We would have thought slowing them through a village would be more useful!
Reaching the bottom of the hill, the landscape changed again. Suddenly we were surrounded by banana palms, tea plantations and a lush jungle like terrain.
This change of terrain was unfortunately signalled by yet another uphill section. The scenery may have been great, but by now we were just looking for somewhere to stay. Nearing the town of Tukuyu, we saw the sign for 'Bongo camping' where we had been planning to stop.
Following the 750m of dirt road we arrived at the site. Bongo camping is a community integrated site that has been set up to raise money for a number of charities within the local area. We have a nice flat camp-site and food has been ordered for dinner and breakfast. Fingers crossed it will be nice.
The area is certainly very scenic and had we been staying for longer there is a large number of trips and tours that they organise. As it is we will be leaving tomorrow and hopefully making it to the town of Karonga in Malawi. Supposedly we have one of cycling's great descents tomorrow, 60km down to the border. We will just have to wait and see if it is true, today's descent certainly wasn't what we were expecting.
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