Day 223 Sudan 29/4/2011, Dongola – Karima. Bikes on the roof and a town between two deserts.

We were awake earlier than we had planned so we decided to try and get an earlier bus to Karima. Our helpful hotelier gave us directions to the bus stop and handed us a piece of paper to show to the bus driver. The directions turned out to be good and we soon arrived in Souk es-Shabi. The hotelier had obviously phoned ahead to say we were coming, as we were greeted on arrival by the man from the ticket office. We paid our 20SDP (£4.50) each and another 20SDP for our bikes and luggage and everything was soon loaded on the roof. All we had to do now was wait for enough passengers to fill the bus.

We didn't have to wait long, just after 9am we were full and under way. From the conditions outside it looks like we had a lucky escape by not cycling the route. The road was very desolate with what looked like only one water stop along the 165km stretch. There was also a fierce crosswind, blowing sand that showered against the side of the minibus. Inside the bus may have been a bit cramped, but it was certainly better than being outside!

Just under two hours later and we arrived in Karima. With our bikes unloaded, still in one piece, minus the odd bit of paint, we grabbed our gear ready to find somewhere to stay. Our guidebook mentioned a guy who offered a home-stay option which sounded good. Debs set about making a phone call and managed to get hold of the guy. Unfortunately making calls is never easy when the other persons English is not brilliant, so getting directions was difficult. Eventually we gave up and found the Al Nasser hotel, which seems decent enough. Once again we had to go and register with the security office, but this time it was easy to find, although unsigned, and the officer was very friendly and helpful. We were soon back at the hotel and checked in, with our bikes stored safely in the room.

Aside from going out to buy some lunch we pretty much stayed around the hotel all day. The afternoon heat stops all but the foolhardy from venturing out, we have found it is best to do as the Sudanese do and sleep through it. One good thing that may have come out of a lazy afternoon is that I have possibly fixed the zip on our tent and all it took was a squeeze with some pliers. We will keep our fingers crossed and see how it is when we next camp, but so far it looks good.

Tomorrow we will leave early to see the ruins at Jebel Barkal and have our first look at some Sudanese pyramids!