Day 312 Malawi 10/09/2011, Ndindeya motel, Zomba. Rugby, resting and a nice dinner.

Breakfast unsurprisingly was chips, egg and bread, which wasn't served with what you could call a smile. In fact I would go so far as to say that the restaurant/bar staff were somewhat abrupt this morning. This wasn't a good start as I had planned to persuade them to put the rugby on in the bar for me, as our executive room's TV didn't seem to want to work. After asking at reception, they got our television working and then explained that there is only one satellite decoder so everyone watches what is on in the bar. The manager(?) assured me that I could have the rugby on, so we went to change channels in the bar. Unfortunately the bar staff didn't seem to understand that someone was watching sport and kept changing the channel. As to why I never found out, as every time I went to ask to change it back, no one was watching the TV. It turned out to be a bit of a frustrating experience which wasn't a disaster as the England match wasn't on until 10:30am.

With Debs content to do her own thing, I headed off to Dominoes bar and restaurant where our Lonely Planet guidebook had said they show sport on their big screen TV. I had no idea whether they would be showing the rugby, but it had to be a better option than the hotel. The bar staff at Dominoes were very accommodating even if I had to find the correct channel myself, which would have been easier if the decoder was in the same room as the TV. Eventually I found the rugby and sat down to watch on the somewhat less than big screen. It wasn't a classic match and a couple of the other customers kept trying to ask me about my religious views, but in the end the result was a pleasing one. I believe I now have a week off before I have to find another television!

Back at the hotel Debs had had a relaxing time reading, emailing, and eating quite a lot of salad. We didn't venture out again until late afternoon when we went to 'Tasty Bites' restaurant for a nice dinner. It seems to be the food place of choice to the local western population and pretty good it was to. Walking back to the hotel in the dark was a bit of an experience. Not because of any concern about muggers, but because of the possibility of falling down one of the many holes that fill the streets. It makes me wonder how many people who claim to have been mugged, have actually fallen down a hole and lost their wallets on the way back from a bar and are just too embarrassed to admit it!

We have another hilly road to contend with tomorrow, when we head to Blantyre our last main stop in Malawi. It may also be the last day into the wind as our remaining days will be spent heading north and then west towards Mozambique, so fingers crossed!

Day 311 Malawi 09/09/2011, Shire camp, Liwonde – Ndindeya Motel, Zomba. 34.11miles/54.63km, 4hr05minutes, Av 8.3mph.

The insects and the slightly too small for the bed mosquito net didn't affect our sleep and we woke feeling pretty refreshed. Instead of waiting at the restaurant for breakfast, we boiled some water for coffee and hastily made some toast, before hitting the road.

We knew that the day was going to involve some hills and shortly after leaving Liwonde we were straight into the climbs. After the last few weeks of flat ground the hills were a nice diversion. For me at least, I much prefer the variation of climbs and descents to the constant pedalling of a flat road. Plus while climbing, the wind isn't as much of a factor, instead it provides a pleasant cooling effect.

After the often difficult and occasionally unpleasant cycling we have had through Malawi, today was completely the opposite. Everyone we met along the road seemed genuinely friendly and the villages along the road were well supplied with food. Stopping for a plate of chips and salad at a little stall was a nice experience, even if the stall holder wasn't keen to have his photo taken.

All of the drinks we had along the route were cold, the scenery was nice and the school children were really happy to see us. If only every day on the road had been like this in Malawi, then perhaps it would live up to its reputation as the warm heart of Africa!

Arriving in the very hilly city of Zomba, Malawi's capital until the 1970's, we rode through the heaviest traffic we have encountered in the country and headed for a motel. Finding the Ndindeya motel was easy enough, even if we had to ask where it was while standing outside as there was no sign! Having had a look at the rather dark standard rooms we elected to have one of the brighter, bigger executive ones. After paying for our stay, which seemed to take ages, we unpacked our gear and got settled.

After a short rest we headed into the city and found a very well stocked market where Debs bought herself plenty of salad. The vegetable highlight had to be finding avocados for sale for the first time since we left Tanzania.

Back at the hotel I did some blogging and photo uploading while Debs rested. A nice meal in Uncle Dan's café took care of dinner and signalled an end to a very good day. Tomorrow I am off to find somewhere to watch England's opening match of the rugby world cup.