Day 386 South Africa 23/11/2011, Zinkwazi beach – Ballito. 29.71miles/47.81km, 2hr57minutes, Av 10mph.

Firstly, the good thing is that the rain stopped during the night, we weren't washed away and we woke to blue-ish skies.

Normally I write about our day on the road, but to be honest today I can't see the point. While cycling through a built-up area just south of the town of Stanger, Debs was robbed. I had been cycling ahead on a hill and had just rounded a corner and was waiting in a lay-by for her to catch up. About 100m back down the road a guy grabbed her bike from behind, thrust his hand into her pocket and grabbed her I-pod. It seems that no amount of shouting and screaming for help elicited any response from the happily watching locals.

Seeing what had happened, two very kind Indian guys in a truck stopped to try and help, but the thief had ran away, taking her I-pod with him. Meanwhile a lorry pulled up beside me and told me I had to go back, because something had happened to my partner. I quickly turned round fearing that she had been hit by a vehicle on the busy narrow road. As I saw her on the side of the road with a truck parked beside her my fears deepened. I certainly didn't expect to hear that she had been robbed.

Perhaps we have got a bit complacent, most of the time through towns it is usual for me to ride behind Debs to make sure she is alright. Since arriving in South Africa we haven't found the situation threatening so don't usually worry. The area we were in may have been built-up, but there was no footpath and we were on a main road. Not the sort of area that has ever been a problem.

Despite a bruised leg and scratched arm Debs is, physically at least, unhurt. Mentally she is, as is to be expected, quite shaken up. It is not the theft so much as the act of the thief grabbing into her pocket and her own inability to stop him.

It is tragic that after 11,000 incident free kilometres this has had to happen. The guys in the truck that had stopped to help were mortified at what had taken place and assisted as much as they could. Their opinion of the locals and their attitude was less than complimentary and they advised us not to stop again until we were well clear. Their concerns about the area were proven well-founded when two young guys shouted hello and then hurled a large stick of sugar cane at us from the embankment.

Kindly the two guys drove their truck behind, holding up the traffic until we were into what they considered a safer area. Their simple actions don't make up for what happened, but it does go some way to reaffirm our faith in human goodness.

Debs somehow managed to hold herself together for the next 30km, until we reached Ballito and the lovely house that we will be spending a few days in. Once again she has shown me how remarkably strong she can be. I only wish that I had been closer to her when it happened and had been able to do something. The shame is that with both of us together, the theft may never have taken place.

While in Ballito we are the guests of Katrina, who we met in Mozambique. What makes her hospitality more amazing is the fact that she is currently in Sudan. Left in the hands of her house mate and friends, Shaun and Louis, our day has greatly improved. We have been made to feel very welcome and a few beers and a glass of wine is helping to ease what has been a very difficult day.

Our day was further eased by a lovely roast chicken dinner, cooked by Shaun, and yet more wine. I am sure things will look much better in the morning.

Day 385 South Africa 22/11/2011, Eshowe – Zinkwazi lagoon lodge, Zinkwazi. 42.56miles/68.31km, 4hr15minutes, Av 10mph.

The rain was only light this morning, so we packed up ready to move on. With cooler temperatures and the promise of a reasonably long descent we opted for full wet weather gear. The rain may have eased, but we expected there to be plenty of standing water on the road.

Shortly after we left Eshowe, we passed the 11,000km mark! The rain had stopped and the skies had lightened as if to celebrate the achievement, oh, and the view was pretty good as well! Once again we took the obligatory photograph and then set off, only to stop a few 100 metres further on to remove our very warm waterproofs.

For 25km we headed mainly downhill, which was followed by a gently climbing 10km section. As we headed down from the top we ran into some roadworks and were a little dismayed to see a sign proclaiming 'expect delays of at least 20 minutes'. After a chat to one of our fellow queuers we decided to chance our arms and see whether we couldn't just go. The guy on the barrier was very helpful and said that we could go, and to ride on the middle section that had been resurfaced. It was just as well that he did let us go as the roadworks continued for about 10km. The speed we were travelling at would have meant that we wouldn't have cleared them before they started the traffic coming in the opposite direction. Riding on the new section meant that we were unaffected by the other vehicles, which was just as well as the section we were on involved a surprisingly steep climb.

Having cleared the roadworks, we carried on through the rolling landscape and had a chance encounter with two cycle tourists. The couple had started in Cape Town and were heading north to Eshowe. The staff at the hostel were in for a surprise later today when yet more cycle tourists turn up. We had a rather challenging conversation across the carriageway of a busy road, wished them well and then carried on.

The last 10 kilometres to Zinkwazi were pretty uneventful and we arrived in the village in time for lunch. Spotting a cafe and shop we stopped for lunch, drawing a certain amount of attention along the way. Lunch was nice, but sadly the rain started again while we were eating it. Pitching our tent was going to have to be in the rain it seemed. When we arrived at Zinkwazi lagoon lodge it was just as well that we had eaten, as their open daily restaurant and bar was closed. Helpfully we were informed that it was open yesterday and will be open tomorrow, just not today! They also have no cooking facilities which left us feeling a little unimpressed. We still have our stove, but the thought of cooking outside in the rain isn't terribly appealing.

Fortunately while setting up the tent the rain stopped so we may be alright. It is just a shame that with the bar closed, there is nowhere dry and warm to sit other than our tent. The village itself doesn't appear to offer much in the way of alternatives either. In the end though we are dry, warm and comfortable and should manage to get some rest for the shorter day to Ballito tomorrow.

We didn't remain dry for long, as the camp-site flooded. In the pouring rain we dropped the tent and pitched it elsewhere and so far we have remained flood free. Let's hope the rain stops tomorrow although the forecast doesn't look good.