Day 245 Kenya 05/07/2011, Bulls Eye travellers pause – Wood carvers OMA camp-site near Namanga. 37.26miles/59.84km, 3hr38minutes, Av 10.2mph.

Having slept better last night, we had breakfast and got packed up in good time. By 8:20am we were on the road and heading for the Kenya/Tanzania border.

Our first stop of the day was at the village of Bissel, where we managed to buy some fruit and vegetables and more importantly stock up on drinking water. After the well stocked supermarkets of Nairobi, it was our first foray into the small wood and corrugated iron shops that line the main road through the villages. The shopkeepers were really helpful if slightly amused, clearly white people don't stop too often, let alone ones on bicycles.

With our water sacks filled we continued on the once again hilly road. To add to our animal count, today Debs spotted a male and female ostrich and I nearly caused a crash when I spotted some gazelle and didn't inform Debs that I was slowing down!

As before there were no shortage of Masai to shout hello to and we were once again followed down the road by smiling waving children. What we could have done without however, was the the mile and a bit of off road where some resurfacing was taking place. If the bumpy surface wasn't bad enough, the dust whipped up by the passing vehicles made it quite unpleasant. We possibly could have ridden on the road as people were walking up and down it, but we didn't fancy tyres full of tar and chippings. This came as a bit of a shame as the road up until then had been brilliant and we had just enjoyed a lovely milky coffee in a small café.

After a short break for lunch, to recover from the awful road surface, we found ourselves heading down towards the border town of Namanga. Spotting a camp-site we went to investigate, but after being quoted a silly price and not really liking the set-up; lots of men, restaurant closed, no flat ground etc, I made the decision to move on. One which I fortunately didn't live to regret when we found another site just a little further along.

We are camped in the compound of a tourist wood carving and craft centre, where apparently cyclists on the 'Tour d'afrique' have stayed. If it is good enough for them, then it is good enough for us! If we were here a few days later we would also meet some other cyclists who are on a tour with a company called 'Escape'. As they are coming here from Tanzania, there is every chance we may bump into them tomorrow; let's hope not literally!

Forgoing the cooking tonight we have had a decent meal in the restaurant and after saying I am not buying any souvenirs have bought a batik painting. At least being on fabric the picture can be folded and won't weigh me down too much!

Apparently the border is only 2km away so we should be in Tanzania quite early. It is farewell Kenya, for the short while we have been here, you have been very good to us!

Day 244 Kenya 04/07/2011, Whistling Thorns camp-site – Bulls Eye travellers pause. 41.98miles/67.58km, 4hr38minutes, Av 9mph.

We ate breakfast in the restaurant this morning having already packed up our gear. Perhaps our previous experience of having lunch in the restaurant was a bit of a blip, as the breakfast was good and we were sent on our way with full stomachs.

The first part of the journey was along the same quiet, yet heavily potholed road that we had ridden in on. If anything however the pot holes got worse and the road surface deteriorated. We have ridden on tracks that were better surfaced!

Despite the awful road, Debs spotted some more zebra and a kori bustard (large walking bird). We also encountered several more Masai, this time in the full traditional clothing. I take my previous comment back, the clothing isn't just for tourists and ceremonial occasions.

When we finally reached the main road some 25km later we were glad to find some smooth tarmac. Stopping for a drink at a small kiosk we became the object of attention to several men, who all seemed fascinated in what we were doing but wouldn't actually speak. It is probably a good idea to get used to it though, as I am sure it won't be the last time we are stared at!

Once again the hilliness of the roads surprised us and we were given quite a workout. Having passed several friendly road workers we spotted what looked like an overland truck in the distance. Sure enough as we got closer we could see people sitting outside the truck and decided to stop and say hello. The passengers from the Gap adventures truck were very friendly and we were kindly invited to join them in some food, which was really good. Having started in Cape Town 40 days ago it was the final day for all on board and most of them seemed astounded that we would be on the road for at least another 8 months. I am sure at times we will envy the speed with which they covered the ground, but remain aware just how many opportunities we have been granted by being on bicycles. After handing out a few blog cards and letting the group meet Toad, we took a quick photo and bid them all safe journeys, before setting off once again.

For the remainder of the day we never said goodbye to the hills, some of which were quite steep. The weather got warmer and the wind got stronger, a headwind obviously, and we were looking forward to finding somewhere to camp. Passing a small village we were greeted by lots of children on the side of the road who ran along beside us. These are the first real group of children we have encountered since arriving in Kenya and it was nice to see their friendly smiling faces. Spurred on by the kids, not to mention the passing Masai, we finally arrived outside 'Bulls Eye travellers pause'. Despite it looking like a bar we had been told by the staff at 'Whistling Thorns' that we may be able to camp there. Eventually getting to see the manager we were told that it would be fine, for a fee of course! The price was alright and our options in the area were pretty slim, plus he opened up a room that we could use the shower and toilet in. Having seen the bar toilet block, this was a blessing!

It may not be up to the standards of our previous camp-sites, but it seems secure and the grounds have an abundance of bird life.

Hills willing, we will get to Namanga tomorrow and spend our last night in Kenya, before crossing the border into Tanzania. Unless it is phenomenally cloudy we should get our first look at Mt Kilimanjaro as well.