Day 224 Sudan 30/4/2011, Karima. A holy mountain, ruins, strong winds and pyramids.

This morning we left just after 8am to visit Jebel Barkal (holy mountain). We were accompanied along the road by a very strong tailwind that seemed to be carrying half of the surrounding deserts with it.

The entrance to the site looked more like a police compound than a archaeological site. There are no signs at all just a huge number of blue camouflage clad policeman sitting around outside a building. They can't be there to protect the site from hordes of tourists as we were the only ones there. Eventually as at the previous site of Deffufa, some form filling took place, our nationalities were asked, money was parted with and a ticket/permit was given.

Walking out into the desert towards the ruins we encountered yet more policeman scattered around the site. This was a bit unnerving as we don't have a photography permit and we obviously wanted to take some pictures. In the end we just decided to carry on regardless and hope no one was aware of the rules. Fortunately, none of the police seemed that bothered.

As we wandered amongst the ruins one of the men from the entrance started to follow us and point things out. We didn't really want a guide and weren't really certain what he wanted, so we just kept walking. In the end it became clear that he was just there to open the door to the temple for us.

The temple of Mut was very interesting with the walls covered in carvings and hieroglyphics. The man who had let us in gave us a brief insight into the meanings of the carvings and with the aid of a torch for the darker sections gave us a short tour.

Having seen the ruins we headed round the back of the mountain and straight into the very strong, sand-carrying wind. It was a bit like being sand blasted as we struggled through the dunes to see the pyramids. The walk was worth it though, when the steep sided remarkably preserved pyramids came into sight.

Walking up a slightly higher mound to have a better look at the site I was waved at by a security guard. Oops! It turned out that the mound I was on, was in fact the remains of a collapsed pyramid, no wonder he was waving! After that slight error I tried not to commit any further mistakes as we wandered amongst the pyramids.

Eventually the wind got the better of us and we slowly headed back towards the bikes. Jebel Barkal has been well worth a visit and having it all to ourselves was great.

Leaving the site behind we encountered the first unpleasant Sudanese children we have come across. Pointing at our bikes and shouting 'give' and then pursuing us on bikes demanding money is something we have not come to expect in the country.

On the way back to the hotel we stopped at the bus station to find out about moving on to Atbara. As before we were told that it would be no problem, but being further the ticket cost for ourselves and our bikes is going to be a bit higher. This time we will be skipping nearly 300km of desert or three/four days of cycling that we really need to make up to get through Sudan while our visa lasts.

Leaving the bus station we went to try and have a look at the old derelict 'Nile Steamers'; boats that used to sail from Dongola to Karima when the Nile was high enough. Sadly we couldn't find the right road and when a young lad decided to accompany us on his bike and then start asking me to give him things we decided to give it up as a bad job. Thankfully we encountered lots more friendly and smiley children during our ride round the town, so the begging, rude few are not in a majority. Breakfast at a restaurant where we were assisted by a really helpful Ethiopian guy rounded off a busy morning.

The rest of the day has been somewhat less busy, although we have sorted some photos out and the blog is back up to date. Hopefully we will get to do some uploading soon.

Tomorrow Atbara and then it is back on the bikes for the ride down to Khartoum.

Day 223 Sudan 29/4/2011, Dongola – Karima. Bikes on the roof and a town between two deserts.

We were awake earlier than we had planned so we decided to try and get an earlier bus to Karima. Our helpful hotelier gave us directions to the bus stop and handed us a piece of paper to show to the bus driver. The directions turned out to be good and we soon arrived in Souk es-Shabi. The hotelier had obviously phoned ahead to say we were coming, as we were greeted on arrival by the man from the ticket office. We paid our 20SDP (£4.50) each and another 20SDP for our bikes and luggage and everything was soon loaded on the roof. All we had to do now was wait for enough passengers to fill the bus.

We didn't have to wait long, just after 9am we were full and under way. From the conditions outside it looks like we had a lucky escape by not cycling the route. The road was very desolate with what looked like only one water stop along the 165km stretch. There was also a fierce crosswind, blowing sand that showered against the side of the minibus. Inside the bus may have been a bit cramped, but it was certainly better than being outside!

Just under two hours later and we arrived in Karima. With our bikes unloaded, still in one piece, minus the odd bit of paint, we grabbed our gear ready to find somewhere to stay. Our guidebook mentioned a guy who offered a home-stay option which sounded good. Debs set about making a phone call and managed to get hold of the guy. Unfortunately making calls is never easy when the other persons English is not brilliant, so getting directions was difficult. Eventually we gave up and found the Al Nasser hotel, which seems decent enough. Once again we had to go and register with the security office, but this time it was easy to find, although unsigned, and the officer was very friendly and helpful. We were soon back at the hotel and checked in, with our bikes stored safely in the room.

Aside from going out to buy some lunch we pretty much stayed around the hotel all day. The afternoon heat stops all but the foolhardy from venturing out, we have found it is best to do as the Sudanese do and sleep through it. One good thing that may have come out of a lazy afternoon is that I have possibly fixed the zip on our tent and all it took was a squeeze with some pliers. We will keep our fingers crossed and see how it is when we next camp, but so far it looks good.

Tomorrow we will leave early to see the ruins at Jebel Barkal and have our first look at some Sudanese pyramids!

Day 222 Sudan 28/4/2011, Abo Hojar – Dongola. 30.66miles/49.70km, 2hr52minutes, Av 10.6mph.

This morning was a morning of sad farewells. Our lives have been deeply touched by the family and their friends. As is often the way, people with so little have shown themselves to be rich in warmth and hospitality. It is easy to think that while we have gained so much in the west we have also lost the sense of community that pervades throughout the poorer countries. The world is a rapidly changing place, none more so than the Middle East and the Muslim countries. Travel for the ordinary Sudanese is very difficult, but who knows one day we may be able to return the favour. It would be a great shame to think that we will not see them all again.

Riding away from the village was a difficult one, we could have easily found ourselves turning round and staying a few more days. In the end we knew that we had to move on.

The 45km ride to Dongola was tougher than expected, mainly because of a strong headwind and the fact that we left a little later than we planned. For some reason I also wasn't feeling 100%, suffering from a lethargy that just wouldn't let my legs get moving. When we finally got to Dongola having crossed the Nile it was with a sense of relief. Finding the hotel we were looking for came as even more of a relief.

After a bit of hanging around while managers were called and the room was sorted, we eventually checked into a basic room, which was at least cooler than the stifling heat outside. Once again Sudan's frequent power cuts reared their head, so our fan stopped working. With little else to do we wandered into the bustling little town to get some food and with any luck a cold drink. Despite the shops boasting a staggering amount of refrigerators, they were largely empty. When we found a small shop selling taamiya (falafel) and cold drinks it was most welcome.

With it getting too hot to be outside we bought some fruit and veg, found another shop selling cold drinks and returned to the hotel for a sleep. At least we would have if we hadn't had to go out to the security office to register our intentions to stay in a hotel. The Sudanese do love their bureaucracy! Having just been out in the heat and struggling to understand the hoteliers directions we took a Tuk Tuk rather than walk. It was just as well that we did because the directions we were given were rubbish and it was quite a long way. After some serious form filling, we were handed the permission slip that we needed to give to the hotel. We have no idea what you do if you arrive in the middle of the night. Perhaps the security office is manned 24 hours, but we seriously doubt it.

Back at the hotel I enquired about the possibility of getting us and our bikes on a minibus to Karima. The staff at the Lord Hotel are very helpful and speak pretty good English and I was told that it would be no problem at all, with the buses also leaving every hour. This is good news as it means we will be able to skip 165km of barren desert. We are aware in some cyclists eyes that riding through the desert is about challenging yourself, but we just can't see the attraction. It's too hot, extremely dusty, windy, there is no water, no shade and it is extremely boring. If the options are staying a few days with local people experiencing the countries culture or riding through the desert for days on end then, with us at least, there is only ever going to be one outcome.

With the next stage of our journey organised we spent the rest of the day trying to stay cool. We failed miserably, but at least we got some rest. Hopefully getting the bikes on a minibus tomorrow will be as easy as we have been told.

Day 221 Sudan 27/4/2011, Abdulfadil's house, Abo hojar. Debs has a morning with the girls and we make a short stop at a Nubian wedding.

This morning after tea and biscuits Debs went off to visit the girls while I stayed at the house. Yet another power cut, extremely common in Sudan, meant no Playstation so I contented myself with reading and sorting some photos.

Shortly after mid-morning breakfast, Abdulfadil said we would have to go and get Debs. I personally couldn't see what the rush was as she hadn't been gone that long and I assumed she would be having a good time. Nevertheless we had to go, so we wandered down the street towards the house. When we got to the house Debs wondered why we were there and I tried to explain that it hadn't been my decision. She was now having her feet hennaed and had been pampered all morning.

Instead of leaving her to it, we stayed drinking tea and chatting. The laptop and camera has been in constant use, first taking pictures and then showing them to everyone on the bigger screen. With the henna finished we had a photo shoot, where Debs was dressed up in a succession of Nubian outfits. She looked great and we have some terrific photos.

Eventually it was time to go so we said our goodbyes and returned to Abdulfadil's house accompanied by two of the girls. More showing and taking of photos followed our return. Debs has made quite an impact in the village, women travelling through riding bicycles is clearly a rarity!

I would love to say that it will be both of us who are remembered the most from our stay but a small green fuzzy fella has rather taken centre stage. It seems that everyone who has visited the house wants to see Toad and his photo of him sitting on the Great Wall of China. It is has been astounding the fascination that has surrounded him. Having grown men want to have a photo with him while they drink coffee was hilarious. In Abo Hojar at least, he is truly a star!

Later that day we gave the family some bottles of fizzy drink that we had bought and some sweets. I then gave Abdulfadil my British flag which I fix to my bike. They seemed a bit shocked and overwhelmed that we had given them anything, but after the amazing hospitality it was the least that we could do. We are going to try our hardest to get the photos from our stay printed out in Khartoum and get a copy to them. This is a little tricky as there is no postal service to the village. Apparently we have to give them to a bus driver who is heading in that direction and they will get to them eventually. This seems a little haphazard but it may be the only way. We would love for them to have the photos, especially as apart from their weddings pictures, they just don't have any.

To bring our amazing stay to a close, we were taken that evening to a Nubian wedding. It was an honour to be able to see the dancing, colourful clothes and listen to the very rhythmic Nubian music. Unfortunately we didn't take our cameras, as we were uncertain whether we could. Despite being told later that we should have, I don't think either of us would have felt that comfortable taking pictures. Sometimes it is best just to have the memories.

As a final thought and in answer to the question 'what do you give the already overladen cycle tourist as a gift'? I can tell you that despite how nice they are and how generous it was, 2kg of dried dates is not the most helpful of items! It was lovely of Abdulfadil's friend to give them to me and I really am very grateful, but where am I going to put them?!

Day 220 Sudan 26/4/2011, Abdulfadil's house, Abo Hojar. Recovery, a stroll round the village and more neighbours!

Thankfully I woke feeling better this morning. The consensus seemed to be that it would be best if we stayed for another day while I got my strength back. See, I told you we were slipping easily into the Sudanese way of life.

This morning we were taken on a tour of the farmland surrounding the village, and got to see one of the deep wells where the irrigation water is drawn from. Despite the harsh conditions the area was surprisingly green.

During the walk we were greeted by several more neighbours and friends and eventually found ourselves in a what seemed like a house full of women. They were all keen to have photos taken and Debs, despite the language problem, was in her element. Her old English teacher days are clearly coming to the fore. With a promise to come back later for tea, we had to leave as breakfast would be waiting for us.

After breakfast I played on the Playstation with Abdulrazig and then later helped him fix his bicycle. In truth I really only held the bike upright, but he appreciated me showing willing, I think?!

Meanwhile Debs had gone a nearby house with the women folk who are all preparing for the forthcoming wedding. It is a shame that we won't be here for the wedding, nevertheless Debs seems to be having a terrific time.

Later that evening we returned to the house we had been in earlier for tea. Once again we were greeted enthusiastically, Debs especially. The women of the house have really taken her into their hearts.

For some time Debs has been saying that she would like to have her hands painted with henna. The women were all very keen on the idea and said that they would do it tomorrow. Obviously we were planning on leaving tomorrow. Not wanting to be stopped they found some henna and started immediately to draw some designs on her hands. The finished work is very pretty and sometime during the evening, we agreed to stay another day so Debs could come back and visit the women again.

Once again overwhelming hospitality is keeping us here. It is going to be very difficult to tear ourselves away. Only the knowledge of how big Sudan is and the time remaining on our visas is keeping us aware of the need to move on.